Peak Structural Torque: Original Peloton® Bike Genuine OEM Right Crank Arm & Pulley Flange Assembly
Are your bike pedals developing a loose, unsafe wobble mid-ride, or have the threads inside your right pedal arm stripped out completely from cross-threading?
Your Peloton® Bike or Bike+ is engineered to handle intense, high-resistance tap-backs and out-of-the-saddle climbs. Because your leg power is transferred straight from your cycling shoes into the internal belt drive, the entire structural load rests heavily on the crankset.
Our Genuine OEM Right Crank Arm Assembly is the exact, factory-original replacement component designed to restore structural alignment to your bike's right side drivetrain. Built to withstand commercial-grade torque constraints, this replacement arm features the integrated circular drive-pulley mounting flange. Sourced directly to original factory metrics, it eliminates loose pedal play, completely silences distracting drivetrain clicks, and keeps your cadence running smoothly.
High-Tensile Mechanical Specifications
Attempting to force a generic bicycle crank or an unrated aftermarket arm onto a Peloton spindle will result in a misaligned drive belt path, immediately stripping the internal splines and permanently ruining the bottom bracket axle.
Forged Aviation-Grade Alloy: Engineered to withstand high-wattage standing sprints and maximum resistance loads without flexing, bending, or stretching.
Integrated 5-Bolt Pulley Flange: Features the factory-exact circular metal mounting disk pre-welded to the arm, allowing your large internal orange or black grooved belt pulley to bolt directly flush.
Precision-Milled Spline Interface: The center axle hole is machined with high-tolerance internal splines to slide tightly onto the bike’s bottom bracket spindle, ensuring zero rotational play.
Standard Right-Hand Threading (9/16"): Cut with precise clockwise threads to securely accept standard 9/16-inch right-side cycling pedals (stamped with an "R").
Signs Your Right Crank Arm Needs Immediate Replacement
Stripped Out Pedal Threads: The right pedal sags at an angle, skips while spinning, or pulls out of the arm entirely. Upon inspection, the internal silver threads have been shaved completely flat—a common failure caused by riding on a pedal that wasn't fully torqued down.
The Persistent "Downstroke" Click: A sharp, metallic ticking or clicking sound that happens exactly once per revolution when your right foot passes the 2 o'clock position under high resistance. This indicates the arm has developed microscopic play on the internal axle splines.
Rounded Out Spindle Hub: If the main center bolt has backed loose over time, the hardened steel axle will quickly grind down the softer aluminum splines inside the crank center, leaving the pedal arm loose no matter how tight you crank the bolt.
The 30-Minute Pro DIY Replacement Sequence
Replacing the right crank arm requires a few specific tools, including an 8mm Allen key, a standard Phillips screwdriver, and a Peloton-compatible crank puller tool. To complete this mechanical swap cleanly, follow this sequence:
1.Remove the Outer Guard Shrouds:Complete Hardware Access.Unplug your Peloton screen power supply for safety. Use a Phillips screwdriver to back out the fasteners holding the outer plastic sweat guards and the main center belt cover in place. Slide the plastic shrouds off to fully expose the orange/black drive pulley and the crank hub.
2.Unbolt the Internal Drive Pulley:Free the Belt Drive Matrix.Locate the 5 hex bolts securing the large grooved drive pulley wheel to the right crank arm's circular flange plate. Remove these bolts using your hex key. Gently walk the black rubber multi-groove drive belt off the pulley tracks and slide the pulley wheel out of the workspace.
3.Extract the Arm Using a Crank Puller:Avoid Hammering the Bike Frame.Remove the main 8mm center crank bolt from the middle of the axle spindle by turning it counter-clockwise. Thread the outer sleeve of your universal mechanical crank puller tool directly into the internal threads of the crank hub. Turn the inner pin of the puller tool clockwise. As it presses against the hidden internal axle shaft, it will smoothly slide the heavy metal arm off the tapered splines without damaging the flywheel bearings.
4.Mount the New Arm and Re-Torque:Lock in Secure Alignment.Clean any old metal shavings or grit off the bottom bracket axle splines. Slide your new Right Crank Arm directly onto the spindle, ensuring it points exactly 180 degrees opposite of your left pedal arm. Torque the main center axle bolt down firmly to factory spec. Re-bolt your large drive pulley to the new flange, walk the belt back into place, and hand-thread your right pedal into the arm clockwise until tight.
Eliminate drivetrain wobble, silence your drive tracks, and lock back into your metrics.
